While not the first diffusion line launched by Kawakubo and Comme—that would be Comme des Garçons Homme—CdG Homme Plus is the second most abstract label under the Comme umbrella. Founded in 1984 and immediately shown at Paris Fashion Week, CdG Homme Plus serves as Kawakubo’s purest vision of the men’s wardrobe.
Despite Comme des Garçons originating as a womenswear brand, the designer famously stated in 1995 that “the basics of clothing lie in men’s fashion,” principle of which is the suit. Granted then, it makes sense that over the last 30 years a core tenet of Homme Plus has been “broken tailoring”: cut-out suits, elongated and asymmetrical proportions and the use of non-traditional materials. For Kawakubo, her avant-garde menswear is a study in the “purest” form of clothing, which she in turn destroys, rebuilds and inverts as only she can.
With Homme Plus’ imaginative and abstract garments not readily wearable—nor affordable—the line has become, like Comme des Garçons for women, a collection of coveted clothing-as-art pieces. For veteran Comme connoisseurs who have graduated from the various diffusion lines, Homme Plus is the answer for those looking to revel in unfettered Kawakubo genius. So while it may not be Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd’s most profitable line, it is certainly crucial to maintaining the magical qualities of Rei’s Comme universe.
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